Willow Glen Resident
Business
Calvin's is back on The Alameda
By Mary Gottschalk
To Silicon Valley cog-noscente of true Philadelphia cheesesteaks, the word Calvin's says it all.
They know the complete name is Calvin's World Famous South Philly Cheesesteaks & Hoagies. They are familiar with the phrase "as mentioned by Bill Cosby." And, those really in the know are aware that owner Jonne Aleeson named his restaurant after his son Calvin.
Aleeson says he's officially re-opening on April 24 because "I closed 17 years ago, and they're still talking about me."
"It's something that has always been in my head to do. I hear about Calvin's all the time; people remember us," he says.
Aleesor made his decision after learning that his praises are still being sung on the Internet. "When I found that out, I thought; it's time for me to do my thing. That's what God told us to do."
Aleeson initially planned to open his new Calvin's in early December, but everything from city permits, inspections, supplies and staffing took longer than he anticipated.
He opened for business on March 7, but didn't start serving his signature cheesesteaks until April and then only in the evening.
Aleeson's roots are, of course, in South Philadelphia.
"I grew up in South Philadelphia. I was there for 31 years," he says.
"I left on April 1, 1974, and came to San Jose because I knew some people here.
"Philadelphia was pretty rough. It was time for me to leave or be in jail or dead. Neighbors from when I was growing up had moved here, so I came out and I've been here ever since.
"I had a job with Sears, and I worked for county transit for a few years, but I just wanted my own business."
Initially Aleeson took over the Fun Club at 957 W. San Carlos St., renaming it Just Jazz and offering music, beer and wine.
In 1981, he opened Calvin's Café and Deli in Mountain View and started serving cheesesteaks. That was followed by Calvin's Philadelphia Eatery in a larger location.
It was during the early 1980s that Aleeson connected with Cosby.
The comedian was performing at Shoreline Amphitheater, and Aleeson says, "I bought tickets for the show and I said, 'I'm going to take him a cheesesteak and a hoagie.'
"I made my move so fast that security couldn't stop me, and I was up on stage with him. I gave him a business card and the sandwiches.
"He said, 'What's your name?'
"I told him and I said, 'Maybe you can come by sometime.'
"He said, 'Calvin's of Mountain View, ladies and gentlemen,' and there was a big roar from the crowd."
Aleeson says Cosby still hasn't dropped by, but on a subsequent episode of The Bill Cosby Show, the comedian did say he was going to Calvin's for a cheesesteak.
Hence the phrase "as mentioned by Bill Cosby" on Aleeson's business cards.
Aleeson admits there are people who do not know what a cheesesteak is.
"I tell them when the sandwich started it was in 1930 at the Pennsylvania State Fair. An Italian out of South Philadelphia named Pat Olivieri invented it," he says.
Rather than continue his explanation, Aleeson finally says, "You have to taste it to experience it.
"Almost everyone has heard about the Philly cheesesteak. It's no doubt the most copied sandwich in America, and I'm the one that perfected it.
"I'm the Maserati of sandwich makers. I've been making cheese-steaks since I was 13 years old. For 50-plus years, I've been making these sandwiches."
While he says sandwiches in conversation, on his menu and website, Aleeson uses the term "sandmiches," explaining, "Everyone else makes sandwiches, and we make sandmiches. It distinguishes us."
The menu at Calvin's doesn't just list food and drink offerings, it also lists dos and don'ts, including:
"Please tell us what you want on your Sandmich and not what you don't want."
"And PLEASE! Don't ask for 'Everything.'"
Under the cold hoagies section, it reads:
"We suggest mayo and will not put mustard on Cold Hoagies. So please don't ask!"
It's not surprising that one online posting praising Calvin's compares Aleeson's operation to that of the "Soup Nazi" on Seinfeld.
One posting reads, "The black guys from Philly that ran Calvin's would yell at you if you requested ketchup on your sandwich, (cheesesteak nazis) and this warning was posted directly on the menu. Ignore it at your own peril. The lunch line was out the door.
"For me Calvin's will always be the standard by which all Cheese-steaks are measured."
Aleeson isn't bothered by the comparison, but he is quick to say, "They're instructions, not rules.
"If they listen to me, they'll understand why when an artist presents something to you he's creating, you've missed the whole thing if you destroy it, and that is what mustard does to a cold hoagie.
"Mustard is a dominant condiment and has no place on a cold food.
"It's ethically wrong.
"It's not acceptable."
However, Aleeson says mustard is fine on hot hoagies.
After a disagreement with his landlord, Aleeson closed the first Calvin's on The Alameda, reopening in Santa Clara.
In 1993 he says he "retired to Willow Glen."
He did some work for AJ's Bar & Grill on Lincoln Avenue, but for the most part he was retired.
What has inspired him to go back into business is Annie Pearl Tomason, his fiancée.
"She's been very supportive," he says of Tomason, who is also from Philadelphia and another expert on cheesesteaks.
Initially, Aleeson says Calvin's will be open from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Friday and from 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. on Saturday. He expects to stay open later eventually and possibly open earlier and serve breakfast foods. If the demand is high enough, and he believes it is, he'll open on Sundays as well.
"I have to get the right crew together," he says, explaining that staffing is crucial to having a smooth running, successful operation.
The new space is less than 1,000 square feet, so Aleeson says he sees it primarily as a takeout restaurant. However, he will put tables and umbrellas on the sidewalk outside when the weather is nice.
He'll be importing some of the ingredients from Philadelphia because, he says, he needs "to make the sandwich outstanding."
His rolls are baked to his specifications, and he expects to start baking his own in about a year.
Aleeson is also adding some vegetarian offerings at the urging of Tomason, and he's already planning to expand to a second location within a year. Again, he says, the key thing is finding the right employees.
Calvin's World Famous South Philly Cheesesteaks & Hoagies, 1411 The Alameda, 408.286.5626, www.calvinscheesesteaks.com. Open 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Friday and 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. on Saturday.
