Local Italian Flavor' goes to Willow Glen

Campbell's Giuseppe Salsiccia will team up with Gary Rovai of Glen's Goosetown

By Mary Spicuzza

The broad grin greeting diners at Giuseppe Italian Restaurant makes it instantly clear that some exciting changes are taking place in the life of restaurant owner Giuseppe Salsiccia. In a crisp and perfectly matched outfit, Salsiccia's 10-month-old son, Quentin, smiles from a photo prominently displayed near the foyer of Salsiccia's downtown Campbell location.

As the new father shows off his curly-haired son's picture, he talks excitedly about his plans for the future. Not only are Salsiccia and his wife celebrating the birth of their first son, Salsiccia's also giving birth to a different kind of baby--on Tuesday, May 4, he opened Giuseppe of Willow Glen Italian Bistro and Cocktail Lounge.

The new bistro is in the previous location of Goosetown Caffe on Lincoln Ave. Goosetown owner, Gary Rovai, will continue to co-own the spot with Salsiccia, and promises to keep his popular cocktail lounge open for business.

"Gary was a regular here for many years," Salsiccia says. "And now he made me an offer I couldn't refuse."

Taking a break after a busy weekday lunch, Salsiccia slides into a seat at one of the restaurant's sleek white tables, surrounded by colorful paintings created by his brother. As Salsiccia describes his hometown of Alcamo, west of Palermo on the island of Sicily, I scan the menu, which reflects his intimate knowledge of Italian cuisine. The list of antipasto includes caprese, fresh 'buffalo' mozzarella with tomatoes and olive oil, as well as a carpaccio, thinly sliced raw beef with capers, parmesan, mustard and lemon. They introduce us to Salsiccia's world of authentic insalata, zuppa, pastas and entrees. Many specialties feature classic Sicilian favorites like grilled eggplant, black olives, anchovies and splashes of balsamic vinegar.

"Giuseppe has designed the menu to take you on an enjoyable trip to his homeland of Italy," the menu's introduction reads. "These authentic dishes are prepared for you in the traditional styles which have remained unchanged for centuries."

Building on his firm foundation in tradition, Salsiccia promises that his Willow Glen menu will reflect his tenure in France and his years in San Jose, where he has lived since 1979.

"The menu will be both traditional and contemporary, with a French twist," he says.

Salsiccia and Rovai believe the emphasis will be a perfect transition from the original Goosetown Caffe mission. Goosetown opened in the spring of 1997, and was designed to pay tribute to the section of Willow Glen where many Italians lived around the turn of the century--named after the myriad of honking geese that they raised.

Rovai, a Willow Glen native who went to school at Broadway High School, still has the lounge's full bar stocked with a healthy selection of southern Italian and Sicilian wines.

When asked about the catalyst for the change, Rovai jokingly blames the long hours of his previous typical work week.

"I just wasn't a restaurant person," Rovai adds. "I've had many offers on the restaurant, but Giuseppe has a proven track record of excellence. He has great food."

Unlike many new restaurants that must struggle to obtain liquor licenses, Rovai and Salsiccia had everything from rich Chiantis, to beer and mixed drinks available on opening night.

Salsiccia has been in the business since 1981. He has worked in both French bistros and Italian restaurants, including Palermo in downtown San Jose. In 1992, he opened Giuseppe Italian Restaurant in downtown Campbell and has been self-employed--and happily busy--ever since.

Besides bringing in his trademark menu, Salsiccia has big plans for redecorating the dining area. With a new awning and sign already being installed, the partners are making plans for an outdoor patio they hope to open in time for San Jose's warm summer nights. Salsiccia is busily planting flowers in window boxes and hanging paintings featuring classic scenes of Venice and Italian villages.

He promises, "I'm going to give it the Italian flavor."

And with nearly 20 years left on the lease, it's an Italian flavor that promises to last.

"We've got 17 years left," Rovai laughs. "It's going to be a long marriage."

Giuseppe of Willow Glen Italian Bistro and Cocktail Lounge opened on Tuesday, May 4. It is at 1072 Lincoln Ave, Willow Glen. Open for lunch Tuesday through Friday, 11:30am-2pm. Reopens for dinner at 5pm. Call 292-4866 for information, reservations recommended on weekends.

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