Original Hick'ry Pit offers breakfast to barbecue heaven

Campbell Avenue eatery's VP and manager boasts that everything is fresh, and nobody goes away hungry

By Shari Kaplan

As vice president of operations for the Bay Area's two Original Hick'ry Pit restaurants--including the bustling establishment across Campbell Avenue from the Pruneyard--Richard Stoll is an experienced restaurateur. There was a time, however, when the most familiarity he had with food service were the meals of a school cafeteria.

The holder of a master's degrees in elementary education, Stoll spent 10 years in the classroom. When not planning lessons or grading papers, he spent time in his kitchen. "I love to cook!" he says .

After financial problems sent his private school out of business, Stoll left chalkboards behind and dove into the restaurant business. His beginnings were humble: fast food. While working at a Colorado franchise called Burger Chef, Stoll took over after the manager left the restaurant one day--in a straitjacket.

"I should have known what it'd be like to be manager," Stoll says with a smirk. He later worked for Wendy's International and Wyatt Cafeterias in Texas, then managed Sambo's, first in Wyoming and then San Francisco. After a stint with Baker's Square, Stoll settled in with what was then Emil Villa's Hick'ry Pit in Mill Valley and then Walnut Creek. Villa left to start another business some five years ago. His name left with him, and the restaurants became The Original Hick'ry Pits.

"One of the things I like about this place is we get nothing frozen. Nothing is pre-prepared; everything is made from scratch. I'll put our food up against anybody's," Stoll says.

A big Hick'ry Pit draw is its smoked meats, prepared on the premises over oakwood fires and served with an award-winning barbecue sauce made specifically for the restaurant. Wood-smoked meats include pork ribs--in St. Louis or original style--sliced sirloin, pork loin, ham, turkey or chicken. New York steak, deep fried prawns, pork chops and grilled salmon are among the non-smoked entrees.

Lighter fare is available for dinner as well as lunch, including an array of burgers and hot and cold sandwiches, all served with French fries, salad, cole slaw or soup. Cobb salads and chef's salads are made with the Pit's own smoked turkey and ham.

Currently, the restaurant's briskest business is breakfast, Stoll says. That's no surprise, judging from the menu loaded with creatively scrambled multi-egg omelets as well as standbys like ham and eggs, pancakes, waffles, biscuits and gravy, and fresh fruit. The Traveler's Special is a real gem: choice of griddle cakes; ham, bacon or sausage; plus juice and coffee.

"I don't care what kind of meal you eat here; you won't go away hungry!" Stoll says of the Pit's consistently large portions.

New to the menu are California Rollers. Made with "pitillas"--a cross between pita bread and tortillas--they combine meats, cheeses and veggies for a light yet satisfying meal.

For those whose stomachs have room, the Pit also bakes pies daily in its own bakery. These include apple, apricot, peach and cherry pies as well as richer selections such as banana and chocolate cream, lemon meringue and pecan. They are available whole or by the slice.

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The Original Hick'ry Pit, 980 E. Campbell Ave., Campbell. Open Sunday through Thursday, 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday, 6 a.m. to 11 p.m. Children's menu, banquet facilities and catering are available. 371-2400.

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