Photograph by George Sakkestad

Faye Khan, manager of the Fat Cat Cafe, serves a platter of chicken kebabs and rice.

Fat Cat Cafe combines best of American, Persian food

Restaurant sports a new look and new menu

By Suzanne Cristallo

There have been some big changes at what now is called Fat Cat Cafe in Los Gatos. What was Laleh's Burger and Grill on N. Santa Cruz Avenue, until Majid Jalali sold it in July after 12 years of business, has been renovated with new tile floors, acoustical tile ceiling, black granite counters and new menu items.

Manager Fay Khan has expanded the hamburger and hot dog grill items to include a combo Philly cheesesteak, a Philly mushroom steak and a Philly chicken. She also has added several salads hailing from Persia, Greece and Italy in the $3 to $4 range and a variety of cold sandwiches for $3.95. Garden burgers and a Philly vegetable version are available for diners preferring a change of pace from meat.

A big attraction is Khan's Persian menu, which she created for Jalali two years ago. While it first was popular mainly with diners from the large Iranian community in the greater Saratoga and Los Gatos areas, it now is attracting locals intrigued by the exotic flavors of skewered kebabs of lamb, chicken and steak served on lavash (thin bread) with basmati rice.

One of the specialty kebabs is the Koubideh: two pieces of ground chuck charbroiled on thin, flat skewers. The flat skewer was adopted from ancient Persia. As the skewer heats, it cooks the inside of the meat at the same rate as the outside, resulting in evenly cooked meat.

The Barg is thinly sliced filet mignon on a single skewer, and the Sultani is one skewer of ground chuck and one of steak. Kebabs with sliced leg of lamb or chicken breast round out the Persian half of the menu. Prices range from $6.95 to $12.95.

A nice accompaniment to the kebabs is a plump grilled tomato--customary with Persian dishes--or the tasty spinach, cucumber and yogurt side dish. A marriage of Persian and American tastes can be found in Khan's special "F.C.C. Sandwich," which is a skewer of rotisseried, marinated ground chuck with chopped tomato, parsley and onion on a sweet French roll for $3.95.

Khan, 37, says she enjoys people who sit at her counter and share their lives or feel comfortable enough to read and watch the TV in the corner. For her, however, sitting is out of the question, and the sharing of philosophy must be done over the shoulder.

While attired in running shoes and constantly moving to take care of cooking, table waiting and cashiering in the busy eatery, she has been known to surprise a customer during a slow moment with a savory taste of tadig, the crispy seasoned rice left in the bottom of the pot after cooking--a touch in tune with her ability to create a homey atmosphere.

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Fat Cat Cafe, 551 N. Santa Cruz Ave., Los Gatos. Open Mon.-Sat. 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Closed Sun. 354-4545.

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