A central part in the celebration of Purim is eating, and a traditional part of the food is the hamantashen—a triangle-shaped cookie filled with poppy seeds or fruit preserves. The cookie represents a variety of things that have a part in the story of Purim—an ear, a three-cornered hat or a pocket belonging to the evil prime minister Haman, who had plotted to destroy every single Jew in a single day, according to Rabbi Melanie Aron of the Congregation Shir Hadash in Los Gatos.

Queen Esther foiled the plot when she convinced King Achashveirosh, at an intimate wine party, to instead hang Haman. "It helped that she was married to the king," smiles Rabbi Aron.

The cookies are made kosher and traditionally have been made from scratch in the home kitchens of orthodox Jews. But now the local Jewish community is excited about a small bakery in Los Gatos that recently was certified kosher. Mama's Bakery is located on N. Santa Cruz Avenue, in a mini mall across from Safeway. In front of the store, kosher hamantashen for the Purim celebration are displayed in plastic boxes festooned with red ribbons. Everything in the small bakery is kosher—from cakes, doughnuts, ice cream, biscotti and pastries to nondairy desserts.

Baker/owner Ali Abraham Shemirani happily relates the process he was required to follow in order to be certified by the Northern California Kosher Association. It took four months of impromptu visits by 12 rabbis, who traveled from as far away as Monterey and Oakland to scrutinize Ali's premises. Members of the association also came to scrub and sterilize the bakery ovens as part of the certification process. Ali was asked to purchase brand-new cooking utensils, and his purchase receipts undergo frequent checks to assure that only kosher vendors are supplying the cooking ingredients. Ali smilingly points to his new middle name, Abraham, as further proof of his willingness to be "kosher."

A kosher, or "parve," label means that food has been prepared under strict observation of Jewish biblical laws, which designate what "healthful" foods may be eaten and how those foods may be combined, according to Rabbi Aaron Cunin of the Chabad congregation in Los Gatos. Certain animals may not be used (e.g., pigs and rabbits). The ones that are must be fed organically grown food and then killed in the most humane way possible. Kosher foods are considered to be of high quality and have gained popularity for those reasons beyond the Jewish community.

"We're very excited about his certification," says new customer Elizabeth Klein of San Jose. "A number of us who can't buy kosher in regular stores now can buy in his. We don't have to cook anymore," she adds, laughing. "His challah [traditional yeast bread] is as good as mine, and his whole wheat is beyond compare. I will travel wherever he is," she concludes.

Mama's Bakery, located at 473 N. Santa Cruz Ave. in Los Gatos, is open Monday through Wednesday, 8 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Thursday until 8 p.m.; Friday until 4 p.m. and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. The bakery is closed on Saturday. For more information, call 408.395.5254 or visit www.mamasbakery.com.