And thanks to three guys named Wong, a luau looms. The three are the owner, the executive chef and the chef of the Hawaiian Pacific Grill in Los Gatos. Respectively, they are Jeremy Wong of Hanapepe, Kauai, and Justin Wong and Lam Wong, both of San Jose. They are not related. If this isn't confusing enough, add another Lam. He's Gordon Lam of Saratoga, who is the restaurant's catering coordinator. The four gentlemen, all natives of Kauai, are in the business of bringing "aloha" to the Bay Area.

"Jeremy felt the Bay Area and the local Hawaiian community needed Hawaiian food," says Lam, reflecting on the restaurant's beginning. Owner Wong figured it right. During the four years the eatery has been operating on a little lane across from Wells Fargo Bank, "mainland" Hawaiians have been coming from as far away as Sacramento to indulge themselves in the food they grew up with in the islands.

But there's a problem, according to Lam. "It's the tiniest restaurant I've ever seen." True. The total working area amounts to about 600 square feet, which includes a loft office. That leaves 400 square feet downstairs to accommodate the exotic cooking of Chef Wong, his big Hawaiian grill, a variety of culinary accessories, a counter person and up to 15 guests.

"First-timers always ask if the dining room is upstairs," laughs Lam, who says they tried to expand into the store next door before it became a hair salon but were nixed by the town. "That's why we do a lot of catering." And lots of takeout.

The menu is reminiscent of traditional Hawaii: abundant fresh ahi tuna, white rice, lomi lomi salmon, yakitori chicken, fresh island fruit, macademia nuts, coconut, kalua pork, haupia and fresh macaroni salad—a mainstay of island lunches. Lunch entrees, like the popular kalua pork, come with white rice, lomi lomi salmon, the macaroni salad and haupia, which is a custard-like coconut pudding, all for $8.95.

"It's also on the dinner menu for the same price," Lam points out, adding, "I don't understand how dinner prices can be different (from lunch prices) in California." It's the same food.

For winter-weary folks considering a luau as a refreshing change of pace, the restaurant will cater. Its favored Kamehameha menu literally is a king's feast. Named for the early-19th-century king whom Hawaiians refer to as "the great," the menu features na pali Chinese chicken salad, made with a classic island oriental dressing, and a tropical fresh fruit salad. There is yakatori chicken—marinated for 24 hours before grilling—and white rice; baked Hawaiian salmon—stacked like lasagna with layers of spices, green onions, garlic, lemon, sweet onions, shitake mushrooms and Portuguese sausage. There are platters of jumbo coconut prawns with a Thai chili sauce, sweet and sour steamed vegetables, kalua pork, California rolls and, finally, haupia for dessert. Delivered and ready to eat, the feast runs $29.95 per guest. For an additional amount, Lam says that he and Chef Wong will help serve dinner along with a wait staff and bartenders.

Hawaiian Pacific Grill, located at 151 N. Santa Cruz Ave. in Los Gatos, is open for lunch Monday­Saturday, 11:30 a.m.­3 p.m.; dinner Monday­Thursday, 5­8:30 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 5­10 p.m. Closed Sunday. For more information, call 408.395.8800 for orders, call 408.307.LUAU for catering, or visit http://www.hpgrill.com.