June 16, 2004     Los Gatos, California Since 1881
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Photograph by Eliza Gutierrez
The new Maki Yaki Japanese restaurant seats about 10 customers, but will feature takeout. Taeja Yim (above) and her husband, Heedon Kyung, operate the eatery.
Maki Yaki a place to dine in, or check it out to take it out
By Suzanne Cristallo
Heedon Kyung lives with friendship and trust. He chose Los Gatos as the place to open his Maki Yaki Japanese restaurant because he and his family felt safe there whenever they visited.

"For years I have come to Los Gatos just to walk around," says the Morgan Hill resident. "I feel it's a safe place to do that with kids." That's important, because Kyung and his wife, Taeja (pronounced "Taygia") Yim, named their 7-year-old son Haeden, which means "a field with sunlight" in Korean. "I wanted him to grow up happy more than anything," Kyung says.

Kyung and Yim opened their tiny eatery a month ago in what once was the Hawaiian Pacific Grill located in a private alley off N. Santa Cruz Avenue, just across from Wells Fargo Bank. Gordon Lam, manager of the previous restaurant during its three-year operation, says his restaurant is devoting its time to weekend catering out of a Santa Clara kitchen until a new storefront location is found. Lam's "day job" as a mortgage broker remains with Victoria Capital Inc. in Los Gatos.

Maki Yaki seats about 10 customers, but its main trade comes from takeout. Kyung acknowledges that while there are several other Japanese restaurants in town, they mainly are places to sit, dine and sip wine. "We are fresh, fast and casual and not a lot of money," he says. "The quality satisfies our customers' desire for good Japanese food, and the response has been absolutely fantastic."

Food is concentrated in four major categories: salads, rolls, bento boxes and bowls. There are five salads, including garden ($4.50) and teriyaki chicken, beef and salmon. "We make all of our own dressings, and there are lots of fresh items like oranges and apples in the mix," he notes. The rolls number 23, including the most recognizable, the California roll ($4.25), followed by the Hawaiian, avocado, mango and salmon. The more elaborate shrimp tempura with avocado, salmon, tuna, cucumber and crabmeat runs $9.50.

"Our menu indicates what is in each roll; otherwise, our customers may not know what they're eating," Kyung emphasizes. "What I want to communicate is exactly what's there." The bento boxes include chicken, beef and salmon teriyaki. The bowls—"a great lunch item"—include a base of rice and steamed vegetables with unagi (freshwater eel), avocado, chicken breast, teriyaki or California roll. Most bowls run around $4.50. The menu also has tempura, tofu teriyaki, shrimp egg rolls, pot stickers and calamari tempura. "We have mostly call-ahead customers, so we recommend getting orders in early," Kyung says.

While Kyung devotes his days to his job as a software engineer, Kim manages the restaurant, working with Chef Seungbae Kim and three part-time helpers. "Chef Kim is a very longtime and experienced chef," Kyung notes. "He worked with a five-star hotel and knows different ethnic styles, as well as Western cooking."

Most of the menu has been designed by Kyung's longtime friend Don Cho of Orange County. Cho originated the name Maki Yaki in 2002 and owns eight restaurants by that name, mainly in the Los Angeles area. Two more will be opening in the north soon. "We are not a chain or a franchise," Kyung says. "We are independent." He says he adopted the restaurant name to help with "brand recognition," and Cho does printing and menu designs for them. But there is no contract or exchange of money, no common ads or research. "Good friendship is the basis," he observes. "It's a win-win situation for all of us."

Maki Yaki is located at 151 N. Santa Cruz Ave. in Los Gatos. It is open Tuesday through Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. and is closed Mondays. Call 408.395.8800 for advance orders.

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