Campbell residents Homayoun and Elham Rod own Shish Kebob .

Homayoun is returning to Los Gatos after a 15-year absence. From 1979 until 1990, he owned the Wine Cellar in Old Town. From then until recently, he ran the Chatanooga Restaurant in Santa Clara, serving Persian food.

Shish, meaning skewer in Turkish, and kebob, meaning the chunks of marinated meat on the skewer, is cooked over a specially designed open gas grill in a way that the nuggets of filet mignon, shrimp, chicken or lamb meat never touch the metal grill. Instead, the flat skewers that run through the center of the meat rest on a frame at either end, allowing the meat to be suspended over the gas flames. Each meat is marinated overnight in its own special blend of ingredients. All start with fresh lemon juice, virgin olive oil and garlic. Pepper and sour yogurt are added to the lamb, onion juice to the beef and imported Iranian seasonings to the chicken. Listed under kebabs on the menu, a flame-broiled rack of lamb runs $16.50; filet mignon is $14.50, and chicken breast is $12.50. All meat is kosher--prepared according to strict rules governing the organic feeding of animals and their humane slaughter. The entrees--shrimp and filet of broiled salmon as well--include a choice of basmati rice and barbeque tomato, pasta or mixed vegetables. The term "burger" on the kebab menu is not to be confused with an American-style patty. It is marinated beef ground with special spices and shaped into a foot-long loaf that is pierced with the flat skewer and flame broiled. It runs $9.50 with vegetables, pasta or rice. Bread fresh from the clay tandoori oven is included.

Great care and many hours are invested in the rice. "People are really concerned about low carb," Homayoun says, "so I remove the starch from the rice." The process takes eight hours.

As soon as they opened, Rod, who runs the kitchen, and Elham, who runs the front of the house, invited their N. Santa Cruz Avenue business neighbors in for dinner. In return, the couple asked for comments.

"One person wanted a different sign--one with color," Homayoun smiles. The vibrant signage out front is the result. "Whether beautiful or ugly, it attracts the eye." Another suggested the prices were too low. With a chuckle, he explained, "Fortunately my daughter, Sadaf, is still in fifth grade, but when she reaches college, I might consider raising the prices."

He did want to add an awning over the entrance, but because the building is considered historic and the awning would mean changing the appearance, the permit would cost $3,500. "I decided the $3,000 awning wasn't worth it."

The interior décor, however, is a pleasing, fine dining atmosphere. Homayoun made the decorating decisions, choosing muted textured walls, crown molding, dark chocolate chairs, marble floors, gold and yellow linens and several large fresh floral bouquets complementing the ochre and earth tones in the room.

Shish Kebob is located at 217 N. Santa Cruz Ave. in Los Gatos. For more information, call 408.354.2002.