Of course, each type of fruit tree should be pruned in a specific manner that is determined by growth characteristics and where fruit is produced. Most trees produce fruit on stems that are more than a year old, but some can also produce on stems that grew during the previous summer. Many fruit trees, particularly apples and pears, produce "spurs," which are stunted but very productive stems. Spurs of apple trees may continue producing without vegetative growth for many years. It is very important for those interested in growing fruit trees to learn how to prune each properly.

The majority of the popular fruit trees are within the same genus, Prunus, but each species and some of the cultivars within these species exhibit distinctive characteristics. The second most popular group is the apples and pears, or Malus and Pyrus. Figs are "none of the above."

Incidentally, the genus Prunus includes peaches, nectarines, plums, prunes, apricots, pluots, cherries and almonds. Yes, I listed both plums and prunes because they are in fact two different types of fruit. Any more explanation than that would be confusing and more than anyone needs to know. The nectarine is a hybrid of peach and plum (I think). The pluot is a hybrid of plum and apricot (duh!). Almonds are the pits of fruit that dries and are removed as "hulls." If you don't believe me, simply compare an almond to the pit of a peach or apricot, but don't taste the peach pit. I have been told they are toxic.

Citrus trees should not be pruned in winter and will actually be more susceptible to frost damage if pruning stimulates new vegetative growth. Persimmons are deciduous and are often pruned similarly to the other deciduous fruit trees but actually perform much better if pruning can be avoided. Light trimming may remove awkward or low stems but should be as minimal as possible. Vigorous but less productive growth may otherwise be stimulated by severe pruning. Severely pruned persimmon trees will always require comparable annual pruning unless "phased out" of the process by pruning less severely than previously for several winters.


Annual of the Week: Beet

Beet (Beta vulgaris) is a biennial species that is grown as an annual. If left in the garden too long or during very warm weather, a tall floral stalk emerges from the basal clump of foliage and both the root and foliage become bitter and tough. Beets can be grown through summer, but the best quality beets grow slowly during cool weather in autumn or early spring.

If small groups of seed are sown at approximately two-week intervals beginning in late summer, beets should be available through autumn into winter. Those planted as the weather becomes cold may not be ready until early spring, but the process may be continued until the weather becomes warm. Beets that are grown through summer are more reliable if sown among other vegetables or foliage that insulates the beets' foliage from reflective glare and the resulting heat.

Beets are typically grown for their distended vegetative roots, but the foliage is an excellent green either fresh or cooked. In fact, chard is actually a type of beet. Roots can grow quite large but are best when tender and young. I prefer to sow beet seed somewhat closely because more space becomes available for smaller beets as larger beets are removed. Soil should be rich and irrigated regularly. Beets will otherwise be somewhat tough. Fertilizer is generally not necessary but can enhance production.

"Detroit Dark Red" is the classic round and deep-red beet, but many other varieties are now available. Some produce long, deep roots or roots that are yellow or white.

Horticulturist Tony Tomeo can be contacted at 408-358-2574 or at LGHORTICULTURE@aol.com.